Interesting question here!!!
I was reading this blog yesterday and it got the old brain cell out of hibernation!!! Thanks, Rose Anne for permission to link, much appreciated (it woke up number 3)!!!
I looked at her little practice piece (that's the second picture down) after admiring her first designs. First thing that I noticed was that she'd tied a knot to start. Exactly what I'd have done in that situation because I'd be wanting to get to the real issue which was the false picot.
I then (because of the knot and where brain cell number 3 was going) got to thinking about the magic thread trick and why I've never used it (well, I did once and the ends came straight out!). So here is my 'how to' for starting off a ring without tying a knot or using the MTT (although actually the following is an MTT without the hassle of extra bits of thread or wire or flossers).
I then (because of the knot and where brain cell number 3 was going) got to thinking about the magic thread trick and why I've never used it (well, I did once and the ends came straight out!). So here is my 'how to' for starting off a ring without tying a knot or using the MTT (although actually the following is an MTT without the hassle of extra bits of thread or wire or flossers).
I tuck the small end round my core thread and TOTT (tat over the tail). Here's what it looks like before the ring has been closed (left). Hang on, I've got a drawing that I've done for the next TIAS. I'll pop that in here too (that's the one on the right!).
Now, 'what if' (like Rose Anne) you have a split ring next with a 'false picot' in between the two. There are several ways of dealing with this but this works best for me.
In the scan below I have started the ring exactly the same way as above by TOTT - but this time I have laid the second colour alongside and behind the original small tail leaving another end to tat over. This doesn't make the ring noticeably thicker. Well, I don't think it does!!!
A handy 'hint' here if you're clumsy like me is to put a paperclip on the second end's tail to stop you accidentally pulling it back out!!! How and why did I learn that trick? Guess - I did pull the end out several times!!!
A handy 'hint' here if you're clumsy like me is to put a paperclip on the second end's tail to stop you accidentally pulling it back out!!! How and why did I learn that trick? Guess - I did pull the end out several times!!!
So the ring is worked over both tails and closed. If you look at the scan below you'll be able to see the gold end 'peaking out' where it finished. Normally I'd make sure the end was left at the back and it would stay there until I'd finished the whole piece. I'd then give it an extra tug before snipping so that it would slacken off and wiggle back into the work. Please note that I was using 'rat's tail cord' for this demonstration - not easy to work with!!!
Now, if you need to leave a false picot in between the ring and the next split ring it is currently being advised that folks should do a lock stitch (tie a knot). I'm going to throw a spanner in the works here and say - please don't!!! It will make an ugly place in the tatting. All you need to do is leave a space of bare thread and start the first side of the split ring. See next scan.
When the first side of the SR has been finished - leave another small space and make the second side of the split ring as normal!!! Again take a peak at the scan below (left). Viola - no need to do a lock stitch!!!
The scan on the right shows the same thing but with the lock stitch in between. I rest my case and will put brain cell number 3 back into hibernation!!!!
Oh, before he goes I may show a way of avoiding the lock stitch if a chain is going to be worked after a ring or SR. Does anybody want to see this?
The scan on the right shows the same thing but with the lock stitch in between. I rest my case and will put brain cell number 3 back into hibernation!!!!
Oh, before he goes I may show a way of avoiding the lock stitch if a chain is going to be worked after a ring or SR. Does anybody want to see this?